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Fixing Time
As outlined in 'Features' the prepared door casing has a cross member to its base and has also been braced, making it into a rigid framework.
Before permanently fixing the casing in place, it's always better to run some checks first. This can be done by temporary securing the casing in position, using packing pieces or wedges. (Trap at the top only, at the ends of the head). With the casing held in place, first ensure that the head is level, then, place your 'straightedge' onto the inside face of the jamb and check that it is straight. Then, place the spirit level on to the 'straightedge' and check for being plumb.
The jamb that you will fix first, is the one that the hinges will be fitted to. In addition to ensuring that this jamb is plumb and that the head level, check too that the outside edge is also plumb and that the width of the jamb is central to the thickness of the wall.
With the jamb in this position, insert a nail at the top fixing point, central to the casing and leave the head protruding. Next, insert a nail at
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If it is found that one jamb rests on the floor while the other has a gap under it, this due to the floor being out of level, and will require some adjustments to remedy it. To do this, with the casing set up level and plumb in positions, accurately measure the gap that's under the jamb, and transfer this measurement to the opposite jamb, When this amount is sawn off opposite jamb, the difference in levels is equalled out; and the casing can be replaced ready for fixing with both feet on the ground. |
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the bottom, checking that nothing has moved as you take each step. Finally, insert a nail at the central fixing point, remembering, at this stage, each nail is central to the jamb and left protruding.
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The jamb is now fixed in its permanent position and if you are satisfied that the jamb is correct, insert the remaining nails and drive them home. On a standard door casing you should use three 100 mm oval nails per fixing point. The two nails that you insert in addition to the central nail, should go in at a slight angle, this will give better grip because the nail is going into the 'end grain' of the timber plug.
Now adjust the head of the casing so that it and the opposite jamb are central to the wall and inset a nail at the bottom fixing point. The next procedure is to visually compare the two jambs, so that they both align. To do this, requires you to cast your line of vision over the edge of the fixed jamb, in such a way that you can also see the edge of the unfixed jamb. The correct position to achieve this is with your head up to the wall behind the fixed jamb. When you have the edges of both jambs in your sight, look |
up and down to make the comparison, adjusting the unfixed jamb, until the two compare exactly. When this is done, insert a nail at the top fixing point so that it, (only just) secures the jamb at this point. Do not fit the centre nail at this time.
The cross member and braces that you fitted earlier can now be removed and the door can be hung as described in Techniques. When the door is on with all the screws in the hinges, check all your gaps as outlined in 'Fitting Internal Doors'.
Before you can insert the remainder of the nails, one last check should be made to see if the 'face' of the door's closing stile is parallel to the rebate. To do this, close the door, so that it touches the rebate. Now check for a gap between the stile, from top to bottom, in relation to the rebate. If both surfaces meet from top to bottom, then your door fits correctly. However, if you have a diminishing gap, then either the door is slightly twisted, or the casing jambs are not perfectly aligned. As this result is fairly predictable, provisions have been made in these instructions to overcome and remedy the problem. Retract the protruding top nail, just enough so that it releases the jamb, and hold the door in the closed position, adjusting the door casing from the loosened top corner so that the face of the door stile is parallel with shoulder of the casing rebate.
With the casing in the correct position insert a second nail to the top fixing point, next to the one that you have just retracted. There is good reason for doing this. If you have moved the casing only very slightly to correct the alignment, then to re-inserting the same nail would have the tendency to pull the casing back to the incorrect position by re-entering the original nail hole.
Now that the door casing is correctly fitted, the remainder of the nails can now inserted. The nails should also be driven below the timber surface and filled with a suitable filler.
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