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Fitting
When complete, there will be a 2 mm gap around the top, and both sides of the door. Initially though, we will only be concentrating on fitting the door into the opening, so that it's a snug fit. There are a number of ways of going about this, and the more experienced would place the door up to the opening and remove the appropriate amount until it fits, but if this is your first attempt, it would be safer to measure the width of the opening across the top, middle and bottom and transfer the sizes onto the door. The door can then be gradually reduced to the |
correct width by planing equal amounts from each side, so by maintaining its symmetry. The door should be offered up to the opening to check the progress, and at the same time visual checks can be made between the top of the door and the casing head. If it becomes apparent that the head of the door and the head of the casing are not going to be parallel, as shown in this illustration, adjustments can be made (in the early stages if the difference is minimal) by planing the door from the centre to the top on one edge, and from bottom to centre on the opposite edge so that the door is 'tilted' while being reduced, which will at the same time correct the difference at the top. If the casing head is out of level to such an extent so that it would not be possible to correct by slight tilting, correction can only be made be scribing the top of the door so that it matches the 'out of level' casing head.
To do this; With the door fitted in the casing, and raise up so that it touches the casing head, place wooden wedges under the door to keep it in this position, and place a pencil mark onto the top of the door just below the gap (at the point were the gap is greatest). |
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From this mark, scribe a pencil line across the width of the door, while at the same time maintaing the same distance from the casing head so that the pencil line and casing head run parallel. To aid this procedure, a simple hardboard or thin plywood guide as shown here on the left could be used, so that when the top of the guide runs along the underside of the casing head, the pencil will scribe the required line across the door. Alternatively, measure the distance of the mark that indicates the gap from underside the casing head, and place a second mark at an equal distance down at the opposite edge of the door. |
Regardless of the method used, remove the door from the opening and place it onto the trestles, and by using a suitable straightedge, draw a definite line over the scribed line, or if using the second option, use the straightedge to draw a line between the two pencil marks. When the top of the door has been cut to this line, and replaced into the opening, the top rail of the door and casing head should run parallel.
Leading Edge
When planing the closing stile of the door, this should be done so that it forms a slight angle to the full length of the door towards the outside face of the door by about 2mm, otherwise it may be found that the door catches on the latch side as the door closes even though it fits correctly in the closed position. This problem is due to the increase radius of the door at its leading edge. You can now confidently remove the required amount from each side of the door so as to achieve the correct 2mm gap to each side. When complete it should be possible to fit 2mm packing pieces on each side of the door. |
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Mind the Gap!
The next step is to provide a suitable gap at the bottom, this is usually about 6mm but can vary according to the different thickness of floor coverings. Assuming that the gap is going to be 6mm, raise the door off the floor so that a gap of 2mm exists between the top of the door and casing head and place wedges under the door to keep it in this position. Ensure that the door is parallel to the casing and measure 6mm from the lowest point from the floor and scribe a line across the door in relation to the floor at this measurement. Remove the door from the opening and place it onto the trestles and using a suitable straightedge, draw a definite line over the scribed line ready for the cut.
If only a few millimeters needs to come off the bottom of the door, then this could be done with a plane, following the line that you have drawn, but you will need to plane from each end towards the centre, otherwise the edges of the door will split due to the end grain of the timber stiles running through. If much more than a few millimeters needs to be removed, then you will need to saw this off using a handsaw or a portable circular saw.
Power
It should be noted that power tools, planers and circular saw's in the experienced hands can save a great deal of time and effort in removing excess amount of timber. The inexperienced should stick to hand tools, which will give the control needed to achieve that perfect job. |
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