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Fitting a window frame can be quite a task especially if you are unexperienced.  Why learn from your mistakes?  Follow these step by step instructions and get it right first time

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Fitting Window Frames

 
Fitting the new window as the original
In this tutorial, I will be demonstrating a method of replacing the Sliding Sash Window with a modern frame, which is not an exactly straight forward task due to the differences in frame size as mentioned in the previous page. Despite this, it does not mean that the process has to be particularly difficult as long as the installation method is fully understood, so it's recommended that you familiarise yourself with the procedure before taking any action.
The new frame will be located as the Sliding Sash with timber linings on each side and top of the frame, with a timber window board fitted. The architraves are fixed to the linings which cover the gap up to the plasterwork, which will mean little or no making good.
This is not very different to the original installation, and should be noted that the frame, linings, window board and architraves are all put together before installation, and fitted in place as a complete unit rather than different components that are later added at different stages.This type of installation requires careful measurements to be made; the brickwork, frame and
windowboard will need to be marked at different stages, so that everything will successfully come together. Most of the markings have colour coded text so that they are clearly identifiable. Timber plugs will also need to be fitted into the brickwork at each side, which will later be used as fixing points and vertical support
for the unit. The cross section plan view (above left) illustrates this installation. 
The New Frame

The new frame will need to be measured and made before any work can commence.  To accurately measure the size of the new frame; measure the width of the opening between the outer brickwork at the top, centre and bottom, and add to the widest of the three measurements 25mm, so that when the new frame is positioned, it will be 12mm behind the external brickwork on both sides. The height of the frame is determined by measuring from the top of the stone sill up to the underside of the stone lintel, or arched brickwork at each side. The new frame will not have a protruding sill as it already sits onto the original stone sill.
With the new frame made and ready for fitting, place the frame into the opening up to the back of the external brickwork, and raise it up by placing 6mm plywood packing pieces between it and the stone sill. Then, check the gap between the top of the window and the underside of the internal timber lintel, which should be higher
than the external lintel in this particular case. This gap will allow space to manoeuvre the frame should this be required, and to accommodate the head lining. Now place a spirit level onto the window sill and adjust the frame until it is level. This may mean tilting the whole frame, and adding thicker packing pieces to one side. Now move the frame latterly so that the amount of the frame showing (from outside) is equal on both sides. When central, and level, prop, or wedge the window in situ, and run a pencil line down each side of the frame to mark its position onto the brickwork. 
It can now be see how the new frame is dwarfed in the brickwork reveal where the box section of the sliding sash would have been, and the objective now is to make up this difference between the frame and the brickwork reveal using timber linings and plugs.
Before removing the frame, place a pencil mark at the centre point of the window sill, and transfer this onto the stone sill/brickwork.
If you find that the cavity between the stone sill and inner brickwork prevent you from doing this, place a strip of 6mm plywood over the cavity and fix it in place.
The position of the new frame is now recorded for future reference.
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