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To do this, Place a length of 120mm x 18mm planed timber lining cut slightly longer than the frame height, so that it can rest vertically on the internal brickwork and be longer than the top of the window frame, and slide it between the window and the plugs to one side of the frame. Adjust it so that it lines up with the plaster line of the room at the top and bottom of the opening. To help make this easier, place a straight-edge onto the finished plasterwork to produce the finish line (as shown on the right), and move the lining up to it. When in position, draw a vertical pencil line to mark its position from the edge of the frame onto the timber lining. In addition to this, place additional marks onto the lining, one marking the position of the top of the frame and the other marking the top of the groove of the window sill. Do likewise on the opposite side, but don't forget that these are handed, left and right, so they need to be marked accordingly.
Before removing the frame, draw a line the full width of the window onto the stone sill/brickwork indicating the position of the window sill, so that the depth of the window board can be later determined from it.
With the linings on a suitable saw bench, draw a pencil line square off the head and sill groove marks and saw the lining to the correct length. The linings can now be screwed onto each side of the frame, ensuring that the guidelines are up to the edge of the frame on each side, and marry up to the top of the sill groove and window head.
Next, measure and cut a length of the lining so that it is 40mm wider than the frame, and screw this onto the window head, so that it lines up with the top two front edges of the side liners. Also, nail down through to the side panels ensuring that the side panels are square to the face of the frame.
The sequence of drawings below shows this process.
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The Window Board
Before the window board can be fitted to the frame, it too will need to be measured and cut to fit the opening, and finish at the point of the window position. Take a length of window window board (Ledge) and cut to length at 200mm wider than the brickwork opening width, and place a pencil mark at the centre point. Centralise the board so that the pencil mark is against the sill/brickwork centre point mark, and mark the opening width on to it, allowing 6mm clearance on both sides. Next, measure from the pencil line that is on the sill/brickwork up to the corner of the plasterwork, and and transfer this measurement onto the window board. You will notice that the window board is rebated to its underside, which produces a tongue. This fits into the window sill groove, which means that the tongue when fitted into the groove makes the face of the rebate the point that is measured from. Now saw out both corners of the board so that it fits into the opening, and up to the line positioning the front of the window. If all is correct, the underside of the window-board will be up to the line on the brickwork/sill, with a 100mm overlap on both sides as shown in the diagram on the right. |
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Remove the board out of the opening, and fit to the window frame, with the tongue into the window groove so the two centre lines line-up, then fix the board by screwing it in place from the underside into the linings, again ensuring that the lining is square to the face of the frame. Please note that the window ledge will need to be pre-drilled before it can be screwed into the linings.
With the frame face down on the floor, cut and fit the architraves, and just tack them onto the lining so that the window bottom can be marked and cut to size, approximately 18mm beyond the architraves on both sides, and remove the architraves.
The complete unit can now be fitted into the opening.
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Because every aspect of the fitting has been predetermined, the window when resting on the packing pieces, and supported vertically on both sides by the timber plugs, should automatically be located to the correct position. Because the architraves have been removed, the fixing timber plugs can be clearly seen behind the linings. Before fixing double check that the unit has been pushed far enough forward, so the edges of the linings are in line with the plasterwork. Now fix the frame in position, by nailing through the linings into the timber plugs on each side, and then refit the architraves back in the original position. To ensure that no draught finds its way around the back of the architraves, form a permanent seal around the back edge of the architraves using decorators caulk.
If it is found that the architrave does not quite provide cover to the perimeter of the brickwork opening, cut lightweight blocks to fit in the space between the back of the lining and the brickwork, and set them vertically (using mortar) on both sides resting on the plugs, but you must insure that they do not come in contact with the outer brick work which could cause dampness to travel across. When set, this area can be made good by plastering up to the existing plaster, which has the added benefit of ensuring that no draught will find its way into the room. |
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