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A stud partition is by far the easiest way of dividing one large room into two, and as long as all the principles are understood, its construction is well within the scope of the DIY enthusiast

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Stud Partition

 
Noggins
Noggins are fixed between each stud to the full length of the partition, and are usually positioned about 1200mm from the floor. If they were left out, the partition would be unstable, making it very difficult to nail the plasterboard in place.
Each noggin should be measured and cut individually by measuring along the sole plate between the two studs that it is intended for, and cut accurately to this size, until all the spaces has a noggin cut for it.
Before they can be fixed, their position must be marked onto the studs, so that they will all be in line. To do this, measure up from the floor 1200mm at each end of the partition, and span a string line between these two points using temporary nails before fixing each noggin using the line as the guide.
The method for fixing them in position can vary, but I suggest skew-nailing on one side, and nailing through the stud horizontally into the noggin at the other.
When all the studs are in place, plasterboard can be fitted onto both sides of the timbers, but first, the sole and head plate will need to be fixed. If fixing to a solid floor, use screws and plugs, ideally 100mm no 12's gauge. If fitting onto a timber floor or to the ceiling, use 75mm round head nails, and arrange the fixing points so that they are distributed at equal distances apart. I suggest, about 150 mm from each wall, and about 600mm apart between these two points.  However, there may be exceptions to these measurements and adjustment may be needed in relation to the position of the studs.

Fixing the Boards

The floor to ceiling height in modern homes should be equivalent to the size of a full board.  It may be that the board will require cutting to fit in height, this being the case, the cut should be at the bottom, so that the cut edge is to the floor, allowing a a gap of about 25mm between it and the floor, which will be later hidden by the skirting board.  In older dwellings, the ceiling height could be considerably more, which means making up the height with boards cut to fit the shortfall. Ideally, the boards and cuts should be staggered.

As fitting the first board accurately is important, the first board should be fitted into the second full board width position away from the wall, so that the first board width is left vacant, this will allow room to handle the board without being obstructed by the wall, and allow the first board to be cut to size, or scribed to fit.
Raise the sheet up to the ceiling using a foot lifter, so that there is a gap between the bottom of the board and the floor, and, at the same time, adjusting the board's position so that the edges are perfectly vertical, and lined-up with the centre of the two main studs. When in the correct position, drive a nail in at the centre, and both edges of the board, which will be sufficient to hold it in place until it can be marked from the floor markings to indicate the positions of the studs.
Using the level and straightedge, draw vertical lines from the floor up to the top of the board showing the position of the intermediates, and a horizontal line across the centre, with. The board can now be nailed in position using galvanized nails, which should be positioned symmetrically, so that each board is fixed in the same way using the same amount of nails. This would be a row of nails horizontally along the top, centre and bottom, corresponding to each upright. The remainder of the nails would then divide up the remaining spaces so that the nails are approximately 400mm apart over the whole area of the sheet, as show here on the right.
Now the first board is in position and fixed, the board intended for the first position next to the wall can be fitted. Regarding this first position, it may be found that this would need scribing to fit the space if the existing wall surface is in some way irregular, or out of plumb. 
When the first two boards are in place, the remainder of the boards can be fitted in the same way, working across the partition, until all the full width positions have a board fitted to them. It is more than likely that the last board will need to be cut to fit up to the opposite wall.  Do likewise on the other side, working in the same direction.
All that now remains, is to fit skirting boards that match the existing onto the new partition.
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